Maren Delaney Photography, hair/makeup:Cathi Barbe for Onsite Muse

I am obsessed with the changes in our facial structure, texture and color as we age.  After watching the (unflattering) video entitled “ Lindsey Lohan’s Changing Face – 25 Years in 60 Seconds Morph ”  I realized that I could use it as a teaching tool.  Obviously, Lindsey’s had some “work done” on her lips, which dramatically changed the look of her face, but the real drama is the speed-ageing that has taken place.  The last photo in the video ( below ) perfectly emphasizes the contours which slowly happen as we age.  

*Ugh, yes, it’s just a bad picture – We’ve all had them – I’m using it as a teaching tool*

First, here’s what you need to know:  As we mature, our face sends out several ageing cues.

“before” c/o
1.  Our eyes start to set in.  The skin under them ( and at our temples ) starts to thin to the point that you can start to see the eye socket * see picture of Lindsey above*

2.  We get “marionatte lines” – Yes, like the puppets, indents from the outer corner of our nostrils going down to our chins.

3.  Our skin tends to get thinner and less oily – This may sound good if you’re prone to acne, but the flip side is larger looking pores, and increased discolorations.

Alright, now that you know the top 3, let’s learn how to disguise them!  Makeup Artists will sometimes say this mantra: ” Lighten the valleys, darken the hills ” – This refers to the magic of highlighting and contouring – All you need are 2 concealers ( 1 light, 1 medium ) *a concealer and a foundation will also work. 

Just as an artist would use darker colors to make things recede, or appear further away, we can use this idea in makeup contouring.  Notice how the indented eyes and marionette lines appear darker or shadowed in in the ” before ” photo (above left) However, the points that protrude, or appear closer to us are lighter looking.  By using our 2 concealer colors, we can reverse it – Giving the skin a smoother, more youthful appearance!

mac contour & concealer

By “lightening the valleys and darkening the hills,” you will first take the lighter shade of concealer and apply a little under your eyes (a little under the brow gives a great lift as well!) Next, apply a bit in the marionette lines and blend out.  I always take a peak around the nostrils, in case there is excess redness, or veins showing through – conceal there too.

concealer/highlight before blending c/o
Next, to ” darken the hills,” you will need to be mindful of what you want to be less pronounced. Perhaps you want more of an “apple cheek” – Simply apply your darker/medium tone under your cheek bone.  This will instantly make your cheek bone appear lifted and more “popped” and defined.  If you’ve never done this before, check out my ” When bronzer goes bad ” blog to avoid classic mistakes!  Maybe you feel like your nose is to wide – You can easily “slim” it by adding a little contour to the sides of your nose, making the middle/bridge appear lighter and slimmer.  

I do want to caution you on adding to much depth or contouring around your jaw line ( You don’t want to appears to have a 5:00 shadow!!!  )  

Notice the smoothness & light under her eyes!    c/o

The thing to remember is that a youthful face has a smooth – almost flat appearance.  By using makeup, we create an illusion that our skin is still full.

Fine lines and larger pores are easily remedied with makeup primers.  There are 2 basic primer types – 1 that keeps makeup on oily/slick skin, and 1 that “fills in” the grooves prior to applying makeup (it will also keep your makeup on for hours more!)  The latter of the 2 usually has a velvety feel to it.  

pic c/o   

Here are 2 that I love on mature skin * They are unique because you don’t have to wear makeup over them*   The formulas are lovely & calming to your skin (say good bye redness! )  Philosophy’s Super Natural  and  The Present Clear Makeup

Let the inspiration begin! xoxoxoxo,

Kira McCarty, Your Onsite Muse Artist 
DIY: Concealor – Younger You in Seconds

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